Le Veru d’Or is the revival of restaurants in the city in recent memory, with a good exciting reason.
Audaciously resurrects the legendary and bold-haunt who opened in 129 E. 60th St In 1937 and served his last escargot in 2019.
In the new iteration, the classic bistro dishes performed by the chef/owners Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr, or Frenchette and Le Rock Fame, are wonders of delicious rustic decline. They make the old war horses look new.
Everything knew better than in Balthazar, where Hanson and Nasr once cooked, and better than I remember an old and unnamed somewhere in the Loira Valley.
But this golden calf also has a shaded side. It is the most obvious clash of great cuisine and unpleasant prices, among other issues, since before pandemic.
First, the great news. The L -shaped dining room, which looks a lot like the original, is easy for the eyes. So are customers, a mixture of older waves in the upper area and the youngest curiosity seekers in the center, most What are cool but, grateful, without load pants or excessive neckline.
The old man d’O or drew celebrities from Grace Kelly to Jackie Onassis and had fans in food critics like Craig Claiborne. But over time, the kitchen faded and the crowd shrunk.
The Renaissance, Maldhegh is not an exact replica, brings the cozy visuals back, with a black and red linoleum floor, wooden panels, red leather chairs, glamorous mirrors and red verification gingham tablecloths.
A painting restored from a dozen calf chairs the coexistence scene. The servers make everyone feel welcome, sailing without problems in the middle of a box with only fifty -five seats.
The menu, executed by chefs Jeff Teller and Charles Eizenstein, offers Bistro Heaven. Everything knew as if I could come directly from a French country house or bistro, but even better.
The menu is not for calories or cholesterol counters. Comte cheese brought creamy and buttery joy to a pair of fresh organic eggs in a “patey” misleadingly simple.
I have had scallops to such a delicate turn from the old la Caravelle. The almost rejectable fresh lucio of the waters of the great lakes bathed in the traditional salsa of tomato and herbs, lobster, Americaine, a sensual and seductive fusion of Lyon-memetan to the glory of both.
Sabodet, the Lyonnaise sausage made mainly or brine pig heads, got my apprehensive friend about her spoil aversion. Its sweet and spicy essence was as lush as rustic, accompanied by the Puy and Dijon Mustaza lentils.
Tan and aged duckbarlet: wrapped in pepper and crunchy bark for texture fireworks and attended by sweet, sour and flourished cherry cherry cherry in cherry juice, melted in the tongue.
Pastry chef Michelle Palazzo, Ile Flotant, with cracked almond, is the dessert to order. The deficient crepe suzettes in liquor, similar to the pancakes, are not very high.
However, despite all its pleasures, the sublime dishes of Le See d’Or are too successful for the general experience. Dinner is only priced: $ 125 for three dishes (plus a splendid green salad), whether you want dessert or not.
Then it is the tight dining room. It is louder than a subway platform when Express Trains Zoom to simultaneously. Background music is not the problem, but the problem is that many ferigent voices strive to be heard in a room too small, hard edge and low roof.
And – the wine! It is a matter of taste, but I backed up in the list of 200 bottles of totally natural selections. Most are not filtered and is as grid in my palate as child cough medicine.
I understand it: Hanson and Nasr are obsessed with natural wines. But I will have killed for a decent and normal pinot.
Can’t you sacrifice at least some traditional wines for those of us who detest funky things?
You can bring yours for a corqueo rate of $ 100 per bottle. What could be worth it if they lowered the volume.
